was not a goody two shoes at school and neither was I studious.

I did, however, feel very strongly about justice and at 10 was happy to lead a rebellion against vivisection.

When I stood on the wall in the playground brandishing leaflets, no one joined me; I was the only one who visited the elderly animal rights lady next to the school. I learned that in spite of what others might say, it does not always translate into action. By the age of 14/15, I was be-ginning to question everything I was taught. I was lucky enough to have an eccentric and rebellious form master who taught me to doubt, and fed my inquisitive nature.

Now I have four adopted Kalasha children, and their mother who was denied an education. To educate them is now my responsibility, a duty I am already beginning to thoroughly enjoy.

When the eldest girl, nearly 13, presented me with amazingly copied images ofTom and Jerry, I was delighted. Whether my introducing them to the brutal and sadistic games of these loveable monsters is politically correct, is something else. I have seen talent exert itself and now am longing to encourage her to realise her potential.

Children had always been something I had done my best to avoid, much preferring puppy dogs, but living in the Kalash valleys has taught me many things. One is that children in a natural background with-out television, pampered living, and being chauffeured to school every day are fun, industrious and eager to learn. Not only the children but adults as well.

When I f`irst came to the Kalash valley, I became involved straightaway in health issues which, when I started approaching embassics and govemment officials, accelerated. Through meetings with the Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA) and Shakil Durrani of Wapda, I was approached to help start the f`irst govemment school in Bumburet (later taken over by the Greek volunteers) and to give health education lessons to women. For this 1 was given a very small gratuity, and when I left Bumburet, I started my own sabhak for ladies in Birir. One afternoon a week was not going to make it labour intensive for the women, which so many NGOs nowadays overlook.

I made it so it became a weekly holiday for them, a chance to meet friends and gossip and to make learning a fun experience. My house always made tea and we would do our best to provide watermelon f or all and sundry. At first only half`a dozen or so of my closest friends and neighbours attended. Within a year or two we had over 25 each time. Not only did the women come, but their children, their dogs and once someone`s bull also inva-ded the meadow. While the children ran around us or tumbled one another on the ground, I found that in later years they had absorbed a great deal.

In those days we had tourists. This often provided great amusement for my students and f or the tourists. On one occasion we were privileged to be visited by a very glamourous woman with long flowing blonde hair who was a dancer back in the States. After much encouragement from the women she put on a solo performance.

Soon we had onlookers on the edge of the meadow. When a group of young Muslim men came to watch, some of the older Kalasha women became a little nervous and we cut the dance short, much to the general hilarity. Then the women pounced upon the poor girl, so that they could braid her gorgeous hair. She was a great sport and happily acquiesced.

I even allowed myself to be cajoled into taking the women to Garam Chashma to bathe in the hot water. Three times no less. I have put my heels down about considering yet another outing! My tourist guide students, however, did get taken to Jingeret Ku, Urtsoon and Shishiku.

We progressed and even did a two-day workshop (that was when a workshop was a workshop now that expression covers multitudinous events) with World Wide Fund.In recent times, we have covered the environment, HIV and TB. Now television has come to the valleys, but the electricity is still so bad, that showing CDs is not yet viable, likewise for the Internet, even if someone is lucky enough to own a computer.

Eventually, the Kalasha will be versed into the ways of the Intemet and like my kids will be able to leam a terribly neglected subject Geography. Maybe they will even appreciate books! Perhaps we can even be really outlandish and teach them history! Presently, we are building a school and library in Birir, which one day we hope will become a government high school.

So far we only have a building, but we are already planning and investigating costs of computers. Our old dispensary, which is not currently in use, will be tumed into the library.

Many times I have been accused of dreaming. And why not? It is only if we dream, we ever accomplish anything worthwhile. E The writer is a British-born national who has made her home in the Kalash valleys; she is a writer/photographer and director of Kalash Environmental Protection Society and Hindu Kush Conservation Association.