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Touching the peaks of frozen ecstasy

By Ahsan Raza 2014-03-23
LAHORE: When he planned to climb Kuzz-Ser in the northern areas, and that too amid sub-zero temperatures, 19-year-old Sikandar Ali Khan was not encouraged by his family and friends.

A BBA student of GIFT University, Gujranwala, however, remained undeterred and after negotiating life-threatening hurdles scaled the 5,950 metre high KuzzSer peak in the Shimshal Pass on Feb 17, becoming the first person in history to scale it in winters. He made the record under the supervision of Sa`ad Mohamed, a resident of Lahore and a professional mountaineer in the making.

Why was everybody against his adventures? `Who would want to risk his life in untouched mountains after the killing of 10 foreign climbers in the foot of Nanga Parbat last year?` said Mr Khan. He, however, went ahead and planned his maiden expedition in the winter.

Amid sub-zero temperatures and the occasional blizzard when he reached the summit of 5,950 metre high Kuzz-Ser, Mr Khan was ecstatic.

`I felt as if I could touch the sky if only I could climb just a little higher,` says the young climber.

`When I got onto the summit, Icould see K2 in the South East.

Now, he plans to tackle the world`s second highest summit in the coming years.

`I know I`ll climb K2 within the next decade, climbing is an addictivesport and my love for the great outdoors has only just begun,` he said.

`This is a first winter ascent of the peak from a previously unclimbed route (south face).

Mr Mohamed said winter expeditions were a relatively new trend in international mountaineering with Simone Moro being probably the most famous winter expeditioner of our times.

`Moro was climbing Nanga Parbat while we were taking nightshots in Shujerav at 4,400 metres, he said.

The mountaineers were assisted by mountain guide Wazir Baig and high altitude porter Hajjat Kareem of Shimshal.Khan and Mohamed left Islamabad on February 7 and arrived at Shimshal on February 10.

After spending a couple of nights in Shimshal village, they, along with six porters and a cook, left for the Shimshal Pass and established the base camp on the fifth day.

`The trekking route is treacherous and one cheats the death many times, especially in winters,` Mr Khan said. On Feby 17, Mr Khan reached the summit at 11:15am af-ter having spent the night on advance base camp at 4,700 metres.

He remained at the summit for half an hour and recorded a video message in honour of travel writer Mustansar Husain Tarar whose writings inspired him to explore Pakistan`s beautiful northern areas.

The summit party descended from the unexplored north face of the peak.

The Shimshal valley is known for its harsh and rugged terrain and stunning landscapes.

`I believe that hardships are a part of every journey, big or small, but the bigger issue is financing mountaineering expeditions,` said Mr Mohamed.

`We simply can`t keep on doing this out of our own pockets,` he said. `Given the prevailing security situation in Pakistan less and less foreign expeditions want to come here. The tourism industry was badly hit in the post 9/11scenario and now the Diamir incident has almost put an end to the once thriving industry. Brands with local presence should realise that there is a world out there beyond cricket matches and musical concerts. Corporate social responsibility is not just about photo opportunities; it`s about time that brands start aligning themselves with the cause of revival of tourism in Pakistan,` said Mohamed.