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A ROYAL TASTE

By Faisal Quraishi 2025-03-02
There`s something about a thali [plate] that`s just ohso-appetising! So, when a friend recently offered a treat at Rajdhani Delights in Karachi`s Clifton area, I just couldn`t say no.

The moment we entered the restaurant, I noticed the family hour was in full swing. After being seated, we were immediately offered an appetiser treat of paparr (rice or lentil crisps) after the shining thalis with small serving bowls were placed before us. The sweet-and-sour chutneys and yoghurt sauce came next, along with some pickled vegetables.

We hardly had started digging through them that our rather well-dressed waiter, complete with a colourful bandhini (tiedye) turban, arrived with a variety of offerings: aromatic cooked daal (pulses) and chana (chickpea) gravy, stir-fried bhindi (okra), sweet-tasting karrhi (ground chickpea curry) prepared in Rajasthani style, paalak paneer (spinach with cottage cheese), chicken gravy, soft and nuffy whole wheat palm-sized rotis (natbread) and puris (deep-fried natbread made with allpurpose nour) and a serving of boiled white rice after a decent interval. With so much food on the platter, I didn`t even know where to start! But start I did, first by taking a huge gulp from the big tall glass of chaach (churned buttermilk), then on to the main course, taking little pecks from each serving bowl with the roti and puri.

The moment we ran out of rotis and puris, our ever-attentive waiter would arrive with a fresh batch, nuffy and piping-hot.

After a while, I just lost count of how many we had consumed! The curries were all very fine, but slightly on the bland side. However, the sidelines of spicy chutneys, sauces, pickles and paparr were meant to give the much-needed kick if eaten with them.

After endless morsels washed down with mouthfuls of chaach, and a fresh round of refills, it was time for the rice to be served and it added another dimension to the experience.

By then, our party had reached bursting point, and there was still lauki (pumpkin) ka halwa for dessert, which was not to be missed on any count. And it certainly did not disappoint, though it was a tad small in serving size (just a few spoonfuls).

After the efficient waiter had cleared the table in one swift sweep, we were served karrak doodh-patti chai (strong milkinfused tea) in small shot glasses, which signalled the meal had officially come to an end.

With the bill paid and on our way towards the exit, I scanned the walls of the restaurant adorned with Rajasthan-themed art and décor, which I had failed to notice on the way in. It seemed as if great pains had been taken to set up the place, no doubt a labour of love born out of the sheer passion for continuing one`s family tradition and heritage. And the food also certainly did not disappoint in the least.

The writer is a member of staff He can be reached at quraishi.faisal@gmail.com