With various aspects of sowing the seed, sustaining the seedling and growing a determinate tomato plant discussed in earlier columns, we will now focus on the phase where the plant begins to approach maturity. During this phase, the focus usually shifts to the fruitbearing capacity and production efficiency of the plant. But just before that, there is another critical aspect to the fruiting phase the nowering phase.

As with other things on Earth, the presence of male and female is essential to maintain the continuity of generations and production of offsprings. Seemingly, the phenomenon is more or less the same in plants as well.

Broadly, it can be categorised as any of the either male and female nowers on different plants, male and female nowers on the same plant or, in the case of tomato plants, male and female parts of the same nower all contributing tothe sustenance of life and production of fruits.

Apart from selfpollinating nowers, and those which require air or water medium for transporting pollen, most nowers require some sort of external support. In such cases, for pollination and fertilisation to ensue, the role of pollinators becomes critical. The reproductive material, pollens, which is essential for pollination, is carried through different vectors or pollinators, which include insects, nies, birds and even small animals.

The nower of the tomato plant falls in the third category of pollinating nowers mentioned above.

Tomato belongs to the family Solanaceae, which are also called nightshade.

While it is not empiricallyproven, some people believe that they are called `nightshade` because they usually nower at night.

This phenomenon results in one major hindrance to pollination for any kitchen gardener. At night, there are hardly any pollinators available especially in metropolises. There is a high probability of nowers going to waste, if there is no timely intervention.

The buds and, subsequently, the nowers of the tomato plant appear in a cluster. Depending on the variety and growing conditions, buds usually appear on the plant during the second month after germination. Soon enough, lightweight yellow-coloured nowers, which usually have five to six petals, start to blossom. The nowers of the tomato plant have both stamen (male part) and pistil (female part) on the same nower.

It means that the tomato nower has both the reproductive organsin the same nower. While tomato nowers can self-pollinate with minimal intervention, the availability of external support (wind, vibrations or handpollination) increases success.

Gardeners can assist with handpollination by gently tapping the base of the nower or lightly shaking the plant, helping to dislodge and transfer pollen within the nower. It usually results in the pollination of the nower. New gardeners worried about damaging the nower can lightly shake the branch and it is likely to also fulfil the purpose.

There are a few factors that may hinder the probability of pollination from occurring. Sometimes, nowers may wither, with the nower-stalks turning yellowish-brown in colour. Sudden temperature variations, increased humidity, an irregular watering schedule, excess nitrogen content of the soil and many other uncommon factors may cause the nowers to fall off.

It is of utmost importance to keep these factors in check. In the case of increased temperatures, misting of the plant and installation of a green net overhead is advised. Once the buds start to appear on the tomato plant, the nitrogen-based fertilisers should be immediately replaced with potassiumbased fertilisers.

While growing tomato plants, there are two schools of thought. One focuses on the main, central stem and prunes off the side branches. The other group, however, nurtures the branches and makes the plant bushy. They believe that more branches will result in increased nowering and fruiting.

In both the cases, the side branches or shoots that tend to grow quickly from the axil the place where a leafy branch meets the vertical stem are to be removed. These branches, also known as suckers, grow at 45 degrees from the stem and sap the plant of its energy. Removing these branches helps the plant to focus more on the nowering and fruiting phases ahead.

Please send your queries and emails to doctree101@hotmail.com. The writer is a physician and a host for the YouTube channel `DocTree Gardening` promoting organic kitchen gardening