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THE EQUINE PRIDES OF SINDH

By G.R. Junejo 2025-05-04
Muhammad Luqman, now in his sixties, has always loved horses. For him, it was inevitable, as he hails from a family that has been raising horses for generations in the deserts of Tharparkar in the province of Sindh.

`Our horses are like our children,` he tells Eos, while gently patting his award winning horse, named Mor [peacock]. `We care for them with love and enthusiasm, as a parent would.

Mor regularly takes part in races in cultural events and festivals across the province, winning races which are often one-on-one affairs and has also won local versions and iterations of dressage events that focus more on gait known locally as chaal and movement.

Luqman says that Mor has won multiple such events, with his impressive speed and elegance. A lot of people in areas across the province have named their horses Mor due to its victories, he tells Eos.

But the path to the top is not easy, explains Luqman. To train a horse in the desert, with its varying landscape and exhausting terrain, demands patience, effort and a significant investment, he points out.

AN AGE-OLD TRADITION The practice of horse raising, breeding and riding in Sindh dates back centuries and is intertwined with the colourful culture and customs of the area. It is reflected in the array of colours and motifs on display in the horse`s tack, including on saddles, bridles, reins, bits and harnesses.

The horse breeds in Sindh are indigenous, with the four primary breeds of horses being Sindhi, Balochi, Arabian and Kathiawari which is also known as the Marwari breed.

Traditional racehorses in Pakistan mostly come from imported breeds, referred to as thoroughbreds, although some half-breeds can also be found on the race tracks in Lahore and Karachi.

The indigenous breeds have their peculiarities, such as the Marwari horse`s inward-curving ears that look like buffalo horns. Its slim neck, small face and unique body shape, with its hindquarters lower than the anterior, makes it easily recognisable.

The Sindhi breed, on the other hand, is renowned for its chaal, which is smooth and graceful. However, as multiple horse owners and trainers point out, it has a lot to do with the expertise of the rider, who usually performs the role of the horse trainer as well.

Another horse owner, Anwar Ali Hingorjo from Sanghar, says that such trainer-riders earn around Rs30,000 per month, but the famous ones can be paid as high as Rs100,000.

A DIVERSE PALETTE `It`s a tough job to choose the right horse,` says Hingorjo. `Enthusiasts pay close attention not only to the horse`s breed and pedigree, but also its colour and physical features,` he tells Eos.

For veteran horse-trainer Ghulam Sarwar of Tharparkar, the colour of a horse often tells a story about its strength and spirit. It is what made the `Black-Veined Kumait` a local mix-breed one of the most sought-after horses locally. Its distinguishing feature is the black veins visible on its legs, long black hair on its shoulders and a matching black tail. Pure black-coloured horses are equally prized as symbols of elegance and strength.

On the lighter spectrum, the `Sabz Surkha` horse stands out for its almost white body adorned with faint black hair, while the `Sabz Surkha Dinary` variety is speckled with coin-like black spots across its body. Another variant is the `Nikra`, which is predominantly black with a white stripe on its forehead. The `Bor` horse with its reddish-brown chestnut hue adds further diversity to Sindh`s equine palette.

Meanwhile, the `Kishmishi Bor` horse is famous for its dark raisin-coloured coat.

However, not all colours are favoured.

A horse breed, locally known as the `Abat Daan` with both legs on one side being white, is often considered undesirable.

RAISING A WINNER For most horses, training begins when two-year-old colts are about to turn three. It follows a strict routine that can last up to two years. By the age of five, they are ready to take part in famous fairs and races in the area.

While some people breed their own horses, horses can also be bought from those who have a bigger stable or are local breeders. The price of a horse varies, says Hingorjo, with the cheapest horse around Rs150,000. `Otherwise, the sky`s the limit and I know about a horse that was recently purchased for 2.5 million rupees,` he says.

It is followed by a rigorous upkeep, with a grown horse provided oats, barley and wheat, along with vitamins and supplements as required. `The minimum cost of feeding a horse is between 25,000 to 30,000 rupees [a month],` says Hingorjo.

Ghulam Sarwar, another veteran of local racing, says that training is exhaustive and procedural, as the horse moves from walk to trot to canter and then all-out gallop.

`The horse first learns to wikh [similar to trot], with the horse travelling at 10 kilometres per hour [kmh],` explains Sarwar. It is followed by rulo and then chaal, which sees the horse`s speed go up to 20-25 kmh. `Eventually, the horse reaches dogam [gallop], hitting speeds in excess of 40 kmh, the ultimate test of speed and endurance,` continues Sarwar.

`A horse that excels at dogam is called a `Warariya`, known for its capability to race on any terrain,` he explains. Those who master the chaal are referred to as `Chobaz`, recognised for their speed but suited only to solid ground.

While Warariya horses were once considered the gold standard, the preference has now shifted toward the Chobaz variant, known for their blistering speed on firm tracks.

Once they are ready for the track and competition, the owners make sure that their horses reflect their glorious heritage.

Some owners get bespoke equipment, made from high-quality leather with colourful threads and detailed embroidery.

They entirety of the tack required for a horse can range between Rs100,000 and Rs400,000, although cheaper solutions are also available.

CARRYING THE LEGACY For 17-year-old Sudhir Joshi, a young horse-owner from Mithi, the blistering pace of horses is as important as the equine legacy of the region.

Despite the growing influence of modern life, Sudhir`s love for horses stays strong.

`Riding a horse is more than just a sport,it`s a part of our custom and tradition,` he says. `These horses carry the memories of our elders,` he continues. `When I ride, I feel myself as a part of those chapters of our fantastic history,` he tells Eos.

Sudhir spends most of his free time taking care of his horses and practising at a local track near Mithi. There, he also gets a chance to interact with veteran trainers and horse enthusiasts. `Their knowledge about horses, their training and their care is invaluable. It`s our responsibility now to keep this tradition alive,` he says.

It is a sentiment that is expressed by those involved in horse-raising and racing, irrespective of age.

`Our horses are our pride,` Luqman says with emotion. `They are not just animals but they are our history and our identity, he continues. `Losing a horse feels like losing a family member,` he insists.

Despite this deep love, Sindh`s horse culture faces many challenges. The increasing cost of horse care and training, along with modern lifestyle changes, threaten the survival of this tradition. Yet hope remains, driven by those who dedicate their lives to these graceful animals.

As long as the sound of hooves can be heard across Sindh, the tradition and spirit of its horses will remain alive a symbol of pride, beauty and love.

The writer is a freelance journalist from Tharparkar, Sindh. He can be contacted at gr.junejol23@gmail.com