Peshawar wanderings
Reviewed by Muhammad Suhayb
2025-06-15
ustansar Hussain Tarar, a renowned actor, dramatist and host, is also a vivid travel writer who takes readers on unforgettable journeys through his evocative storytelling. Whether it is the breathtaking Northern Areas of Pakistan or the scenic cities of Europe, his books have a way of making readers feel like they are walking beside him. He doesn`t just talk about beautiful places he connects them to history, people and emotions.
Lahore has long been Tarar`s favourite city for what he calls `awargi` his term for aimless wandering filled with stories and reflection.
But this time he shifts his focus to Peshawar, one of the oldest cities in South Asia. In Peshawar Awargi, Tarar opens a window into the soul of the city, letting readers experience its rich past, vibrant streets and the people who make it unique.
Even though traces of British colonial influence are still visible in Peshawar especially in their failed attempts to conquer neighbouring Afghanistan Tarar brings the city to life in his unique storytelling style. The book is a loving tribute to a city full of history, myths and contradictions.
From the mention of iconic dishes such as chapli kabab and karrahi, which have their roots in Peshawar, to references to the infamous Hari Singh and East India Company, it is quite clear for the reader that this isn`t the author`s first encounter with the city. For those who still remember Peshawar as the birthplace of Bollywood legends such as Dilip Kumar and Raj Kapoor, this book should be a treat. While it offers deep insights into Peshawar, by the time you finish it, your curiosity about Dilip Kumar and the Kapoors remains very much alive.
Tarar not only revisits these stars` connections to the city but also takes us to their ancestral homes. Through stories like these, he uncovers the deep bond between the city and those who once called it home.
The book begins with a visit to the Peshawar Barracks, which remind the author of Alcatraz the notorious prison known for no one ever escaping from it. A Lambert London piano, a key element for the author, weaves its way through the entire story, linking moments and memories together.
Reading the book feels like watching a detailed four-hour documentary on Peshawar. There are no photographs there though, only a wealth of information in large font. The absence of visuals don`t matter, as Tarar`s words paint the pictures. He starts with the myth of the North West Frontier and brings in a young Winston Churchill, who once served in the region as a soldier in the First World War. American actor Kirk Douglas, who visited Peshawar at the onset of the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan, is warmly remembered by the author, who also adds a personal touch to the narrative.
Tarar also challenges popular historical accounts. He questions the claim that Alexander the Great entered Peshawar through the Khyber Pass, and critiques how some Muslim rulers from the northwest are often glorified as saviours instead of being recognised as invaders.
In today`s world, most cities are presented through guidebooks, top-10 lists, and Instagram photos. But Tarar`s approach is different.
He wanders through Peshawar`s narrow alleys, bustling bazaars, old havelis and ancient landmarks. His journey is slow, detailed and full of feeling. It`s like walking through history with a friend who knows all the secrets.
One of the most touching parts of the book is Tarar`s visit to the Raj Kapoor haveli. He doesn`t just describe the building; he brings it to life. Through old family stories and dialogues, he helps the reader feel the presence of the legendary Kapoor family. From the sound of Prithviraj Kapoor shouting for Anarkali in Mughal-i-Azam style, or the mysterious sound of the famous song Awara Hoon continuing in the background. The empty house doesn`t feel silent it comes alive with memories.The book also has chapters regarding the famous Qissa Khwani Bazaar, old cinema houses, forts and the British-era cantonment.
The author doesn`t hide the difficult parts of Peshawar`s recent past, where refugee issues and damages due to the `War on Terror` tops the list. Still, he focuses more on the city`s strength, its people, their humour, their everyday lives and their strong connection to culture and tradition.
The mention of revolutionaries such as Bacha Khan and Subhas Chandra Bose further highlights the city`s deep-rooted spirit of resistance and its revolutionary legacy. Did you know that, during his protests, Bacha Khan was closely associated with Mir Taj Muhammad Khan, father of Bollywood actor Shah Rukh Khan? Many readers might be surprised to learn that Shah Rukh Khan`s uncle, his father`s younger brother, stayed in Peshawar even after Partition. While SRK`s father moved to Delhi before Independence and settled there, his uncle chose to stay back and continue life in Peshawar.
Tarar visits their family and shares stories of SRK`s cousins, who still run a successful bamboo business in the city. One of their most loved family members was Nur Jehan, aka Munni, who was close to Shah Rukh and visited him several times in India. Though she haspassed away, her son, who resembles his famous uncle, is a source of pride for the family.
From Shah Rukh to Shah Jahan, readers would be surprised to know that a fascinating piece of history, the Kaarvan Sarai built by the Mughal princess Jahanara Begum, the daughter of Emperor Shah Jahan, is still there inside Gor Khatri. This Kaarvan Sarai was a reststop for traders and travellers, and it still stands today, a symbol of Mughal hospitality and architectural excellence.
Another emotional highlight of the book is Tarar`s visit to the birthplace of the iconic actor Dilip Kumar, born as Yusuf Khan. This part of the book goes beyond travel writing. As Tarar walks through the old streets of Peshawar to reach the actor`s ancestral home, he is filled with nostalgia. The crumbling walls of the house speak of an era long gone. Tarar`s admiration for the late actor is deep and sincere.
He writes not just as a fan but as someone who sees Dilip Kumar as a symbol of shared cultural history.
The book also talks about historical figures such as Ali Mardan Khan, who served as the governor of Peshawar. Known for his engineering skills, Ali Mardan Khan built the famous fountain in Peshawar`s Shalimar Gardens. He also designed a park in Peshawar with a working fountain despite the ground there being uneven.
Sadly, this masterpiece was eventually destroyed due to bureaucratic carelessness, something Tarar mourns in the book.
Tarar doesn`t just focus on big events or grand buildings. He also tells small, touching stories. For example, he talks about a local man who still keeps his grandfather`s old Russian Ruble notes in the hope that the Czarist rule would return someday.
In conclusion, Peshawar Awargi is not just a travel book. It is a deep, emotional journey through one of South Asia`s oldest and most complex cities. Mustansar Hussain Tarar offers a thoughtful and heartfelt tribute to Peshawar, its history, people, pain and beauty.
For anyone who loves stories about places, memories and human connection, this book is a must-read. It reminds us that cities are not just made of buildings; they are made of people, dreams and histories, which refuse to fade away.
The reviewer writes on old films and music and loves reading books. X: @suhaybalavi