ast week my elder brother stopped over in Beirut on his way home from Makkah. This is what we call a moderating stop. He rang up to inform that after a predictable pilgrimage, the stopover was an `eye-popper` When informed that Lahore also now has a little Beirut, there was a long silence. I wonder what he was thinking! A few weeks ago mention was made of a Lebanese restaurant `L`Auberge` at Faletti`s Hotel in this column. The result has been immense interest, and a positive response to a new taste in town. So it was with the family of Athar Salim. The problem was that he wanted me to suggest a menu, because he did not have a clue what Lebanese food was all about.

His children know what a `sha-warma` is. Period. This place imports all its ingredients, except the fresh meats, from Beirut, with the chefs and manager all being Lebanese. This place has a duplicate in Dubai, so they have a very good idea of what real Lebanese food means.

My suggestion was based on a list of typical Lebanese dishes, as well as keeping an astute eye on prices, because this is definitely not an economy ride. So we ordered Hommos Beiruty for starters. This has garlic, chillies and a dash of parsley added and good fresh garlic bread makes sure a nice meal is in place. As at the table we were six persons, so three different dishes were ordered.

They were Aubergine Fatteh, which is thinly slices and olive oil fried pieces of this fleshy vegeta-ble, with slices of minced meat into which is ground pine nuts (chalgoozas) and finished with yogurt. Indeed a unique dish.

Second to come was Kafta Khash-khash, which as most Pakistanis will recognise as `koftas` made with khash-khash and served with charcoal prepared potatoes and finished on the plate with a thicl< tomato sauce prepared with olive oil. Lastly, we had the exquisite sliced roasted lamb meat served with French fries and a light sauce. The children loved it.

At the end of the meal we ordered `Achta bel Aa`sal`. My view was that as Athar saw the word `aa`sal` he associated it with purity, and correctly so. This is basically clotted cream served with honey and crushed almonds.Gosh, was it sweet.

Let me judge this unique `eating out` experience on the Michelin Scale of one to nine. For food taste it gets seven, for food quality eight, for ambience a seven best describes the classy setting, for service six (they need to improve on this front), for prices five (gosh, this has no economy short-cut), for variety in the menu a six will do, for assistance from the staff to understand this type of food a miserable four is a positive marle ing. My feeling is they must work harder to assist `lost customers` trying to figure out what to order.

This gives this `eating out`experience with Athar Salim and family an average of 6.1 out of nine, which is just about OK. I would have imagined a 6.5 to 6.7 would be acceptable. Given their obviousshortcoming of customers not knowing what to order and service staffnot up to scratch, they have created a gap in their rank. I am sure they will cover a lot of ground very fast. Highly recommended.

HEAT AND MORE HEAT: As one moves about in the heat, at lunch it is difficult to decide just what to have for a light lunch. As I was stuck in the traffic snarl on Abbott Road, I decided to have a simple `channay` with a fresh hot `naan` at Shahi Channay. This is an old reliable place.

The owner knows me well and, without my saying, ordered a cool salted `lassi` to go with the food for me. Oh, it was delicious. The `channay` at this place always score good marks. The `lassi` was divine.

It was filling, delicious and very economical.-AMSHE