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A MOMENT OF SPARKLE AND SHINE

By Faisal Quraishi 2025-04-27
Fashion is all-inclusive with the power to absorb lifestyle influences and project them outwards by giving them a worthy backstory and strong support. And that`s what the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan`s (TDAP) Gems & Jewellery show was in Lahore.

Eight powerhouse fashion designers teamed up with the same number of dynamic jewellery brands to put Pakistan`s best foot forward, and present its style and design acumen before an audience comprising both local and foreign guests, along with potential buyers.The Gems & Jewellery show, a first of its kind, was presented as a standalone event, embedded within the broader vision of the Health Engineering & Minerals Show (HEMS) 2025, to amplify and export Pakistan`s creative and industrial strengths, and was jointly organised by TDAP and the Ministry of Commerce.

The runway presentation managed to bring together much-loved names in fashion, veteran couturiers and fashion powerhouses in a rare show of meticulously crafted ensembles that spoke of old-world aesthetics and value-for-money worthiness.

Queen of Couture Nilofer Shahid`s presentation, with whispers of literature, history and art, blurred the lines between the sheer worth of the jewellery (Goldby Reama Malik) and the regal trousseau pieces. The lasting impression was that Shahid`s heirloom pieces are quintessentially just as timeless, elegant and precious as Reama Malik`s heirloom artistry, which attempts to revive dying crafts in jewellery-making through cherished, intricate age-old techniques of meena-kari and jarraozevar, along with the use of pearls, polki and pure gold. The synergy, a testament to the power of craftsmanship, spun an intricate tale of harmony, symphony and exceptional excellence.

The runway again sprung to life as another vibrant and remarkable synergy was created as HSY teamed up with Waseem Jewellers to present the latter`s heritage worthy gold and diamond jewellery collection. While HSY`s essentially Eastern ivory ensembles perfectly offset the sparkle and shine of the diamonds, his hot pink outfits with radiant gold jewellery triggered a lingering and mesmerising effect, and an unforgettable fashion moment.

But not everything centred around the razzle dazzle of gold and diamonds. Zonia Anwaar`s minimalist line, with structured silhouettes and draping spelled sophistication and chic, provided the ideal base for Heritage Jewellers` high-grade gemstones and pearls in silver settings. The collaboration looked perfectly harmonious with both the brands` identities, where value is not derived from price but purpose, sentiment, individuality, timelessness and modernday sensibilities.

Contemporary fashion design also made an impression and defined the collection titled `Rebel Raani` by Munib Nawaz, mostly known until now for his modern take on immaculate menswear. The designer made inroads into new territory by celebrating femininity with a certain boldness in silhouettes, such as in pantsuits, jewel-toned drama and quilted patchwork.

Paired with Almas Jewellers` gold pieces inset with diamonds and precious stones, the showcase didn`t just complement Munib`s bursts of sheer ingenuity in women`s wear, but spun an entire and complete yarn.

Celebrated actor, director, producer, activist and sculptor Angeline Malik returned to the runway again after showing in Karachi at the Winter Fashion Gala (WFG) 2025 in February. With its unique ability to heal and transform, her copper-based jewellery, Artline, symbolises endurance, strength and resilience, the very traits that keep her going as she battles personal health issues.

Coupled with the visionary textile brand 82, founded by stylist Ehtesham Ansari, which explores age-old textile techniques, advocates inclusivity and social impact, the collaboration titled `Pink Salt` saw models sashaying down the length of the ramp in a harmonious blend of the soft glow of pink perfectly offset by the warm tone of copper.

The Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design (PIFD) jewellery department`s fashion and jewellery showcase was shaped and moulded under the expertise and guidance of Shwana Khalil. Its class of graduating designers brought on the ramp the raw beauty of local cultural motifs in chunky pendants as well as an experimental edge in contemporary designs.The fresh, bold narrative, daring silhouettes and intricate detailing and the painstaking craftsmanship in the delicate jewellery pieces as well as the bridalwear were indicative of how this new generation of artisans have uniquely imagined the future of fashion,something not witnessed before.

Kuki Concepts by Zahid Khan played with tradition and drama in ivory and black with undertones of goth, as well as vintage silhouettes. Pairing with Sonica Jewellers Signature`s heirloom bridal sets, polki, diamonds and statement pieces, it resulted in a visual symphony that resonated with both classic and modern sartorial influences.

Expressing individuality and boldly expressive, Blockestry created pieces in bold red with a touch of opulence and asymmetry, while Divine Jewels presented a beautiful collection featuring an array of necklaces, earrings and bracelets with semi-precious stones and metals, blending earthly opulence with celestial inspiration. Together, they delivered a showcase that was rebellious in its nature, radiant and spiritual.

Show director and veteran Karachi-based couturier, and a master at his craft with an eye for minute details, the celebrated Rizwan Beyg paired up with TDAP for the show to form an invincible fashion force, one desperately needed in these fashion-famished times, when the magic and romance of serious fashion is diminishing and fading away like the setting sun.

With hair and make-up by Nabila and her team, overall styling of the show by Ehtesham Ansari and event management by Tehmina Khaled and her team, the Gems & Jewellery show introduced some revolutionary trends and initiated dialogue in fashion synergies. But most important of all, it explored the possibility of export potential for Pakistani crafts and artisans` hard labour.

While it ticked all these boxes, what remains to be seen is how long it will take for TDAP`s efforts to bear sweet fruit and for Pakistani gems and jewellery exports to begin to sparkle and shine in international markets.

The writer is a member of staff He can be reached at quraishi.faisal@gmail.com